You can have the best hair concept in the world, the perfect lighting, and a rockstar creative team — but if the model isn’t right, the final images will always fall short. I’ve seen it happen time and again: incredible hair let down by a model who just didn’t suit the vision.
The truth is, model casting is as important as the hair itself. And getting it right takes more than just picking someone “pretty”.
Let’s dive into what makes or breaks a model choice — and how to get it right for your next hair shoot or award submission.
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What Makes a Great Hair Model?
When casting, I always encourage stylists to consider these three core things:
1. Face Shape and Features
Some styles demand strong cheekbones or a sharp jawline; others work best on softer, rounder features. Hair shapes frame the face — and the face should *balance* the hair, not compete with it.
2. Hair Texture and Density
You need the right *canvas*. If your concept depends on volume, movement, or a specific texture, the model’s natural hair needs to support that. Trying to force a fine-haired model into a big textured look usually leads to unnecessary frustration (and mediocre results).
3. Personality and Posing Ability
This is the big one. A model who knows how to work with a camera — angles, expressions, posture — makes a huge difference. They’re not just wearing the look; they’re *selling* it. Especially in competition imagery, where emotion, strength, and attitude come through in a single frame.
> Side note: You don’t need a “fashion model” look. You need someone who fits your vision and can deliver in front of a camera.
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Agency vs Freelance Models
There are pros and cons to both, depending on your budget and the nature of the shoot.
Agency Models
* Professionally trained
* Easier communication and booking through bookers
* More consistent performance and look
* Often more expensive and with tighter usage restrictions
Freelance Models
* More flexible (and often more affordable)
* Great for up-and-coming stylists building their portfolio
* But… you’ll need to vet more carefully (some look great in selfies but freeze on set)
I’ve worked with both, and my biggest tip: **always do a test casting**. Even just a Zoom or in-person chat, or a quick set of polaroids, can help you get a better read on their vibe.
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Tips for Stylists Doing Their Own Casting
If you’re not working with an agency or casting director, here are some things I recommend:
1. **Ask for recent no-makeup photos** — ideally shot in natural light, with hair down and no filters.
2. **Request hair history** — chemical treatments, extensions, natural texture, etc.
3. **Check posing confidence** — ask to see portfolio shots or even short videos.
4. **Do a hair test day if possible** — get your hands on their hair before shoot day.
> *Bonus tip: Keep a running list of “go-to” models you enjoy working with. Building that relationship over time pays off hugely in future shoots.*
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Hair Awards: The Stakes Are Even Higher
When it comes to competitions like the British Hairdressing Awards, the model can genuinely influence how a collection is received.
Judges often look for:
* Confidence and connection in the model’s eyes
* Balance between hair and facial structure
* Cohesion across the collection (do the models work well as a group?)
I’ve seen incredible hair collections go unnoticed because the models didn’t match the mood or feel disconnected from the camera. And I’ve seen technically simpler styles win — because the model owned the shot.
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Final Thoughts: Cast Like a Director
Think like a film director. You’re not just choosing someone to wear a haircut — you’re casting a character who embodies your creative story.
Take the time. Be selective. And remember: the right model doesn’t just elevate your work — they *amplify* it.
If you ever want feedback on potential castings or advice on agencies I’ve worked well with, feel free to reach out. I’m always happy to help creatives build shoots that shine from every angle.